I think we’re close to 750 now, but I don’t think I’ve posted since the 500 marker somewhere cerca Ventura.
By “we” I mean me and Hannah, my bff. My hatchback hyundai accent. She’s grand.
More good news: I remember how to surf! I’ve stood up and dropped in on a handful of waves now! Nothing really noteworthy yet, but just knowing that I can still surf was what I was shooting for- and it’s only day four! I dinged my board though. I know, it’s only day four. It’s got a slab of duct tape stuck pressed on as smootly as possible and that’ll have to do for now.
I’m also learning about crowds. Those things that show up when you have a coastline renowned for waves. I’ve never really had to deal with them before, but the break I caught yesterday had a line up and I was so uncomfortable. Not only is there more pressure to catch your wave (because everyone gave it up to let you try) but you have to stay out of everyone’s way. People were mostly nice, but I didn’t like how it felt. And I still haven’t gotten good enough at duck diving (did I ever put a link to that term? it’s basically diving under/through a wave with your board) to successfully stay out of the way.
Today was more of the same, but it took me all morning to find waves. Laguna was flat everywhere I checked and Huntington, just north, was so crowded I couldn’t stomach it. Tourists and beach goers everywhere, not just surfers. As a last ditch effort I drove a little more north to a place called Bolsa Chica, and cha chingggg! Success! A nice guy leaving gave me his parking pass and there were plenty of spots, only a few surfers in the water and great almost perfect waves! I had to climb down a bunch of rocks to get there, but besides that I couldn’t really figure out why it wasn’t packed. And the water was sooo warm, I was out for a solid hour. Fulfillment.
And the afternoon kept getting better! I scored big with the campsite luck game. The game where everywhere is totally booked for the summer but I happened to be online for the five minute window where the campground server glitched up and accidentally offered me a site! When I called the lady said they were totally full, but when I checked online this one little site popped up- I snagged it. Then when I arrived the lady gave me a speech about how normally you absolutely have to have 48hrs notice to make a reservation, but because their system messed up she’d let me slide, just this once. Wham bam, thank you ma’am.
So things are going well. Being on my own agenda is as dreamy as I’d imagined. I did an impressive grocery shopping job before leaving and am staying well fed. AND I the ground was so soft here I got my tent up in no time at all, by myself (… an embarrassing first..). Happy summer everybody (: