The sun came out today! Only to go back away. But I got a few surf sessions in first. And by “surf session” I mean utterly frustrating half hour on a board- surfing is really hard.
Let me rewind. Yesterday was pretty good. I got to surf in the rain and I’m pretty sure I met a mermaid. She was super nice and the waves were empty because of the overcast weather. I struggled to catch waves, but I had one or two, and the water was so warm and so pretty in the rain that I felt pretty good regardless. And a champion couch surfer pulled through for me at the last minute, so I headed down to San Diego for a home-cooked meal, a shower, and some cool stories. While it was perfect and hot in the morning, it wasn’t long before I made the connection between the military town of Norfolk (right by where I grew up) and San Diego. They’re like sister cities and they were almost too similar. It felt kind of like Florida too. All my hippy surf towns faded away and people got a bit tougher and I don’t know how else to describe it. But I headed back up north pretty quickly. I wanted more of the surf bum culture than I was finding around Sea World and Camp Pendleton.
K. Now back to today.
Today I hit a hump. I think the same hump that comes with all great achievements (or I’m telling myself that anyway) but a roadblock nonetheless. Waves were perfect, but I couldn’t manage to catch a single one. Well, I caught my very first one at the first spot, but it was downhill from there. I drove up to Oceanside and it was just unreal. Beautiful, nicely sized, just perfect waves. And a parking spot opened up right as I pulled in, I had to give it a go- all the signs said so. I even made it out at the perfect time and did’t get hit by any waves at all, which was nice because they were just big enough to where it’d really suck to get pummeled paddling out. Ugh but I just could not catch them. They’d slide right by me. And down the beach everyone was catching tons and having so much fun. And I was sitting there with my new shortboard feeling like a bear on a potato chip.
On top of that, I had been ignoring the fact that I was kind of the only surfer out where I was- the rest were over by the pier. I thought it was strategic, getting smaller ones where I was, but nope. It was definitely a no-surf zone. And the lifeguards gave me like 30 min to figure it out before sending the boat out to inform me. And of course when I got in I noticed the ten different signs telling me not to surf there cause it was the tourist swimming spot. Whateverrrrrrr. Surfing is hard.
I did manage to find a couple cozy nooks to hold up in once the rain started. I haven’t quite sorted out the camping situation but I think it’ll be fine, and I’m not quite ready to go set up camp. So I’m in this fun little place with a lot of wooden chairs and bookcases filled with books all along the walls. And the rain is nice. Peppermint tea and a chocolate chip cookie.
Tomorrow’s another day. Let’s see how that one goes.